Selvedge Magazine - issue 118

Successful collaborations come in many forms and involve different levels of cooperation. Madrid-based Milliners Maleza joined forces with Claudy Jongstra in her LOADS project – the resulting hats were the outcome of discrete contributions from both designers. Similarly, when designer Odette Blum invited 27 artists to respond to a theme, she gave them a free hand – the project culminated in a book that celebrates their different visions. As Elizabeth King, Head of Costume Production at the Royal Opera House in London, explains, collaborations with more rigid external parameters require more skilled negotiations. Yet, when costume designer Sandy Powell realised a director’s vision, ultimate insight, intuition, and even greater communication were needed.

During my time in India, I came face-to-face with collaborations between artisans and designers where both parties were equally respected. From this position of strength, they could overcome the challenges facing the craft community. The information age has brought new opportunities and the promise of a better quality of life but it also threatens the survival of the intangible cultural heritage of hand work. Thao Phuong shares her account of how artisan Phan Thi Thuan navigates the symbiotic relationship between tourists and craft in Vietnam by contributing to the greater interest in lotus-silk weaving and deftly demonstrating how crafts can survive hand in hand with tourism.

Ramesh Menon of Save the Loom warns in Vinita Makhija’s article “Hope for Handloom” about “handmade being positioned on the premise of charity.” He notes, “Most who venture to support continue to play this card, damaging the sector. Handmade is the ultimate luxury and needs to be positioned and marketed in that realm.” Views shared by Madhu Vaishnav of Saheli Women, a co-operative based in Rajasthan. In a round-table conversation, Makhaja’s panel contributed insights into how technology can be used in tandem with the craft sector for mutual benefit. I leave you with the thought that perhaps to save craft; we must collaborate with technology.

Text by Polly Leonard

Editor Selvedge magazine

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